A Scholarly Tidbit

So, while I intend to include history only as appropriate in later posts, I’m pretty sure I’m not amiss in thinking that most people know Colombia only for its exports, potentially chiefly the illegal ones. I know that was the case for me! But since I’ve been doing a little reading about it, thought I’d share just a bit.

(I promise, this blog is not intended to be an integrated history lesson or highly scholarly in general, so if this doesn’t interest you, you should probably just skip this entry and come back later for the fun stuff :))

But in the meantime--

Like many South American countries, Colombia was invaded by the Spaniards in the 1500’s. The Caribbean coast, where I’ll be for both years, has played an important role as the intermediary between the Colombian interior and outside world. Although Bogota, which is located in the more populous, interior Andes region, is the largest city (and Colombia’s capital) with over 8 million people, Barranquilla, Cartagena, and Santa Marta are influential port cities on the Caribbean. Barranquilla, where the Peace Corps’ main offices are located and where we train, is a city of well over a million people. For some idea of geography, a map, courtesy of the State Department:

The country as a whole is unique in that it’s highly fragmented geographically and culturally. Its diversity has contributed to its historical lack of political and economic viability. With tropical lowlands to the west, a desert in the northeast, the Andes to the East and south, and jungle hindering transportation between (road transport between cities is still not safe or well-maintained), exports, politics, and general national revenue are not well coordinated. The people who live on the coast are known for their differentiated culture, including their food, manner of speech, and festivities, and are labeled costeñas; over two thirds of the country’s population lives in the mountains.

And yet, Colombia is far from being undeveloped. There’s a lot of legal wealth from industries—oil, natural gas, bananas, minerals, cut flowers, coffee, coal—and in the cities, almost all households have access to electricity and running water. (Internet is available in cafes all over, but not as much in individual houses). However, 45.5% of the country’s population is at the poverty level (where I’ll be, too, for the next two years…)

But, what about the kidnappings, you say?! The drug violence, the cartels? Well, that exists, but nothing like it did historically. The first half of the 20th century was marked by conflict between the conservative and liberal parties, and then after a government coup came “La Violencia,” from 1946 – 1957 where hundreds of thousands were killed. Peace was negotiated between parties and the “National Front” was established…during which time rebel groups fought, murdered, kidnapped, and were killed in return by the government. Drug wars, civilian deaths, and overall violence reigned, leading to massive citizen displacement.

(If you’re interested in names, these rebel groups include the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC), Democratic Alliance (M-19), and the National Liberation Army (ELN) These organizations are all still alive and kicking today, but have been fractured and no longer coordinate large scale attacks)

Then came President Uribe, who ran as an independent in 2002, and with the help of the US (to the tune of billions of US dollars), cracked down on the drug cartels and violence and negotiated peace during the span of his next two terms in office. (Like the US, the president has a 4 year term, limited to two terms) Since then, kidnappings, murder rates, and overall violence have decreased dramatically. Drug trade is still profitable--Colombia is estimated to produce 80% of the worlds’ supply of cocaine, and provides 90-95% of US supply--but much more contained. (Ironically, the output actually increased by 3% this last year even with all the money thrown at the crackdown effort—although land and labs are continuously confiscated, coca growers have apparently gotten more efficient at production.)

In terms of the kidnappings, murders, etc, most of the violence/kidnappings is now contained to rural areas. The State Department cryptically reports in its latest update in July of this year that “Kidnapping remains a serious threat, with two kidnapping cases of U.S. citizens reported since August 2010”—no mention of where, why or how—but it also says “Security in Colombia has improved significantly in recent years, including in tourist and business travel destinations like Cartagena and Bogota.” But like a typical overprotective parent, the US still “urges caution,” so in addition to getting permission from the US Embassy any time I want to travel in-country, I’ll also have to follow the policy all US government officials follow which is that I’m allowed to travel to major cities in the country but only by air, and I can’t use any public transportation at night.

That being said, official state department numbers estimate 60,000 or so US citizens are living in Colombia, with 70-80,000 visiting EVERY MONTH!! Which means, no excuses, friends. :)

Anyhoo. That seems comprehensive enough for now. And my next update will include real live experiences, woot!