Woohoo, today is the official last day of our first week!
Andddd, in an interesting turn of events, I definitely don’t have ready internet access. I’ll hope to post once a week or so. So much for internet cafes with wifi! Instead there are lots of internet “cafes,” which are tiny buildings that have computers connected to an internet—and by computers I mean one or two—and a phone that is capable of making international calls that you can pay by the minute for. Oh well. I’m hoping to use the internet at another Peace Corps member’s house to do most of my real internet usage, which is where I am now…although it gets a little awkward since it’s sort of hard to walk in and tell them I just want to use their internet. At least at this point. Maybe later, but really right now I’m making do without. So instead of normal sized, decently-spaced entries, you’re getting this ginormous one! And a then another one as well. It's been a big week! So here we go—
A typical day:
Days here are starting to fall into a rhythm. We have classes Monday-Friday from 8 :00-5:00 at Colombo Americano, which is a private English school that has a few locations throughout the city. There are a few other Peace Corps volunteers living with families nearby. We have to catch a bus for classes at 7am. A few of us (as well as one of our host dad’s) have been “running” in the mornings – we meet at my house at 5:45 and go run laps on the sidewalk around a nearby park (the park is too small to run inside it, but the streets aren’t navigable enough to run through them). Then there’s the 45 minute bus ride on a crowded bus that winds through the city and has no designated stops, so you just push a button or yell when you want to get off.
In the days we basically have Spanish classes in the morning and Peace Corps classes (on teaching and Peace Corps policies, etc) in the afternoons. We have an hour for lunch. Lunch is catered by a nearby restaurant that has finally gotten the idea that “vegetarian” entrees don’t mean iceberg lettuce and rice, so that’s been great since it’s my only guaranteed vegetarian entrĂ©e of the day (there’s a whole separate post on food…so I’ll go into lots more detail there!)
After class, we have another hour bus ride on an even more crowded bus, and we get back a little after 6:00. When I get home, my host family is usually watching some sort of tv, which often is a terrible dubbed American movie (who knew Will Smith did so many incredibly awful movies…). Dinner is around 7. This is a short, no-frills affair and then my family settles in for some more TV…news, more movies, or “Yo Me Llamo” are staples. (Yo Me Llamo, which means “My Name Is” is reminiscent of American Idol, except that the contestants are impersonators. It is on 3 days a week for 2 hours at a time and everyone goes crazy for it here. As in, the day Quaddafi was killed, we only saw 5 minutes of this on the news because it was Yo Me Llamo time…ridiculous!)
Although we just sit all day and night, the days are long and sort of exhausting…I try and learn some Spanish or do my homework while the TV is on and often fall asleep in my rocking chair watching TV, and go to bed sometime between 9 and 11. Rinse and repeat!
Host Families:
We were given our host families this past Sunday. Peace Corps members sat behind our giant mound of luggage in the hotel lobby while families arrived and we watched as our comrades departed in the arms of their new parents. Aside from a small mixup when one of us went home with the wrong family (And yes, it fulfilled all awkwardness potential on that note), it wasn’t long before we’d all been spirited away!
My host family turned out to be closer to host “grandparents,” and unlike many of the families who have extra family members and such running around, it’s simply myself, Ana Marguerita, and her husband Gregorio. Ana Margarita is 69 and her husband is 72. Gregorio seems to have early Alzheimer’s, which makes for a slightly unique dynamic. He speaks some English from childhood classes and loves to use it when possible…and I get extra practice with vocab and such since we get to have the same conversations with him multiple times every night!
Ana Margarita is amazing—the house we live in is directly in front of the entrance to a primary and secondary school of 2000 or so children. Thirteen years ago she started a small photocopy shop primarily used by the students and teachers of the school. She sells small school supplies and some candy and such, but the biggest attraction is the homework. The way the schools work here is that the teachers bring Ana Margarita their books and she keeps them at the store. When the teachers assign homework, the students come to Ana and ask for copies of their homework and she’ll copy it for them, page by page, on old photocopy machines and charge 50 centavos or so a sheet. Starting at 6:30 in the morning when she opens, her store is hopping!
Outside the store is a large, ancient tree and in the tree is an outlet and a lightbulb. The outlet is generally used by a man who fries things and sells them to the students at the school across the street, and apparently for music sometimes as well but I have yet to see that happen.
As for the house I’m living in, it’s fairly small. There’s one living room/dining room area, with some formal burnt orange velour furniture that isn’t ever used, three wicker rockers placed strategically in front of a tv, and the dining room table. Everything is tiled. I have a small bedroom that used to belong to Ana’s daughter (she has two children, both doctors now living in a town 4-6 hours away by bus). I have a twin bed, a fairly large closet/armoire, a little white plastic table and chair, and a fan. Also an unusable air conditioner, randomly…but with all the rain it’s actually been fairly cool and I haven’t needed a fan at night at all! I have a few pictures of this all below. As a side note, I don’t have internet, which was expected. What I didn’t expect was that I’m actually in the minority in this regard. Also, instead of having Skype in the internet cafes, they have phones you pay to use to call the states, so I’m still working on figuring out where I’ll be able to Skype for the next three months. Frustrating. Then again, I have my own bathroom with a mirror(!). And since I can check email on my kindle (although it’s a pain in the butt and writing emails is potentially more cumbersome than texting), it is legitimately a toss up whether I would prefer to have internet access from my computer or my own bathroom…ahh well.
My barrio:
Colombia is divided into “departments” which are very similar to the states in the US. In each department there is a “capital” city, and the city is divided into barrios, or neighborhoods. (So Barranquilla is the capital of the department of Atlantico). My barrio is named “Los Andes.” Like the other barrios nearby, we’re in a strata “3” which translates to lower middle class—more on stratas later. There are many small stores selling vegetables and dry goods, beauty shops, little restaurants, etc. It’s not uncommon to see men with carts and donkeys riding along either selling fruit or trying to collect old scrap metal from the streets or inhabitants.
Many of the sidewalks are tiled with what could be adobe, and look to be extensions of each house’s patio. While these are pleasing to the eye, the smoothness of these tiles makes the sidewalks extremely tricky in the rain!
Apart from footing, the barrios are safe in the daylight as long as you don’t do anything dumb. There are three other Peace Corps families who live with families on my same street. Our families are fairly protective and don’t let any of us walk alone after dark, especially after eight or so (Because we’re so close to the equator, it gets light and dark at 6 in the morning/night every single day year round). I actually don’t have any pictures of the barrio right now because one of the extremely protective mothers made us not take our cameras out on Monday (which was a holiday—Colombian Colombus Day, celebrated a week later because they made it permanently on Monday so there would be a long weekend). She said that there were too many people around and the cameras would get stolen. Other people we met up with for lunch in the same area had taken pictures with no problem, so we’re still unsure if the families are being way overprotective because we’re Americans, etc, or if these security threats are real. We're thinking it's a little bit of each, but they're definitely being very protective
However, that being said, my “abuela” seems to be a little less strict than the others. I’m allowed to go to the park alone in the morning if I want to run (in circles around the park on the sidewalk, not in the park itself since there’s no space in there to run), and when I came back at 10:30 on Friday night after getting a couple beers at a local place with some other volunteers, she said “Oh, you’re back so early!” Perfecto.
Classes:
So, for the next three months we’ll be spending most days in “Colombo Americano,” which is a country-wide institution that teaches English to people of many ages. They’ve volunteered to let us use their classrooms. The most bizarre thing about our days there is that when the air conditioner is on, the rooms get incredibly cold. Like, winter coat and hat cold. But of course we all have Colombian-coast-appropriate gear…which means that on the rainy days we have to turn off the air conditioner so we don’t spend the hours huddling in our small plastic chair-desk contraptions in rain jackets and shivering.
In terms of content, the Spanish classes are, as predicted, the most interesting. However, the curriculum doesn’t seem extremely advanced. I’m sure it will get harder, but they’re using the same curriculum for basically all levels, and adjusting the “depth” of what they teach to skill level. We’ll see if it works. We’ve done greetings, physical descriptions, and family members in my class, as did basically everyone else, regardless of skill level.
In the afternoons we learn Peace Corps-y things. Like more security and policy information, but also information specific to Barranquilla. These classes basically consist of one director or another reading out a Power Point to us and then explaining themselves again, while the other directors sitting in the room qualify those explanations with further explanations. For the next few weeks we also have a woman from DC doing teaching seminars with us, which are sometimes interesting. The powerpoint situation makes the afternoons stretch long and slow but I calm myself by reminding myself that I really have no better place to be right now…it works most of the time.
Arroyos:
Arroyos have quickly become an integral part of our lives here. Arroyos are the flash floods that happen, especially on certain streets, almost every time it rains. It rains every day. The reason these happen is that Barranquilla has no storm or sewage anything. The streets are completely paved over. So when it rains—again, it rains every day during the rainy season…tons…--the streets turn into raging rivers. The water soaks into the ground and softens it so much that trees topple—into houses, cars, the street, wherever. The water, even water just a few inches deep, has a riptide so strong it can topple buses. So when it rains, the city stops. No one leaves their houses, many of the buses stop running, the taxis pause, and everyone waits for the rain to stop. So for our first day of class, we were literally all two hours late because of the rain. Arroyos typically only last for an hour or so before they go down, the water running into the Magdalena River apparently although how it gets there I still don’t know, since the river is not on significantly lower ground than Barranquilla. They cause quite a bit of damage around the city—houses get completely flooded, roads washed out, etc. Why sewers weren’t built/aren’t being built is still a bit of a mystery.
Anyway, this seems to be good enough for now. Overall, life is a little surreal because although we’re in this new culture and living with host families, etc, our day to day life is vastly removed from the community. And since it gets dark at 6 and our hour long bus ride means it’s dark before we get home, we don’t even get to explore the neighborhoods at all during the week. My Spanish ebbs and flows...sometimes I think I'm understanding a fair amount, and then other times my host mother tries to explain simple things and I have no idea what's going on. Other than that, obviously life is different right now but not all that different from the states, objectively (minus the lack of internet). Waiting for the other shoe to drop…aka when our actual work begins. I think then the real shell shock may hit!
Various pictures below:
Waiting to be adopted
Group lunch in barrio Los Andes
My bed and non-functioning air conditioner
My "desk"...beach furniture is pretty much the norm around here
Classroom at Colombo Americano
View from our classroom in Colombo Americano (it's like a motel,
the hallways are outside)
Cafeteria at Colombo Americano
Giant iguana! They're all over the grounds at Colombo
Our teacher bought us coconut water (as in, you buy a coconut
and the guy machetes off the top of it and you drink out the water) on our
class field trip today!
Eating an avocado for lunch in order to escape yet another ham
sandwich
View from the corner by my house
Hanging out with Heidi (and Katie, she's invisible) at the Paneria on the
corner.
I'll get some pics of my house, my abuela's store, and the outlet in the tree soon :)