Down South: my Peace Corps adventures in Colombia: Marooned for a Month: Providence Island Immersion

Hello friends!

When I say I've been trying for a long time to get out this post, it's the truth! I'll spare you the reasons it took so long, but one big one - internet speed - is worth mentioning because for that reason, the pictures below are in absolutely no order.

So, here goes -

I spent a lot of last month on the very small and very beautiful Colombian island, Providence. I'm planning to write up the island itself for my column over at travelgogirl.com (With a Side of Salsa) that will be published in the next few weeks so I won't repeat...but there's a 2 picture limit there and that's just sad!

Did I mention I was on a very beautiful island? I'm not sure that's a strong enough statement. (See pictures below.)

But first: What was I doing on said island?

Every year, the National Ministry of Education runs an immersion program for English teachers with a relatively low level of English. The idea is to get them from a B1 (early intermediate) to a B2 (late intermediate) on the European Framework scale. Teachers from all over the country apply. They also submit a proposal for a community project they'll do on return.

Then, they're sent to Providence and San Andres - two very small and very gorgeous islands off the coast of Nicaragua. (You might have heard about them from the recent maritime rights dispute, or because of Providence's unique black mountain-dwelling crabs). Providence and San Andres have a unique history, including Baptists, pirates, and Spanish settlement that have left them with a totally unique culture - including a whole mess of English, Spanish, and Creole languages all coexisting. The islands may be Colombian, but they are a world apart from the Colombia that I or even the other Colombian mainlanders had experienced before. (more on that in my upcoming column!)

The teachers live with local families for a month learning English and interacting with the natives. For many of them, it's the first time they've ever left their families. While it was a little humorous to hear middle-aged men talk in all serious about how they missed their moms, their comments were also refreshing; turns out, even other Colombians, too, sometimes struggle living away from their families in the homes of other Colombians. (While I live with an absolutely wonderful host family, it's definitely a major challenge of PCV life, in general)

I digress! Back to the immersion and my role: this year for the first time, Peace Corps volunteers (myself and three others) went as part of the teaching contingent to add a methodology component to the lessons. It was a challenge that we rose to with our 21 months of in-country experience, from last-minute planning to complete flexibility and a whole lot of forging ahead through the unknown. A paradise both for the amazing environment as well as wonderful people - islanders and Colombian teachers both - it was definitely a life highlight.

Randomly ordered pictures and captions below--

The three lovely local tutors who taught the English classes for 4 hours a day

We were really excited to get our first Peace Corps buttons. PC Colombia represent!

Sunset on Southwest Beach, our closest beach at a 3 minute walk.

Crab Cay, the tiny Cay paradise that's part of MacBean's Lagoon - a national park made up of mango mangroves and lots of ocean

The water is so teal because the island is surrounded by the world's 3rd largest barrier reef

No better place to nap on earth

We taught groups of 20 teachers at a time. Side note: While mainland Colombia loves their plastic beach chairs (from classrooms to room furniture to social event necessities), the islands do it right! These plastic chairs had PLASTIC DESKS attached

On Santa Catalina--it is a tiny island attached by bridge to Providence. I'm not sure if its few inhabitants get counted into the 5,000 tally of Providence islanders, but the start of the path to Captain Morgan's buried treasure starts here!

Ron Don is a local "stew." From left to right: giant flour dumpling, yucca, ñame, fish, plaintain. Boil all these starches (and one white protein) in coconut milk and you've got a plate of the tastiest carbs you'll ever find

One Saturday "cultural event" we climbed "Peak" with our teachers: it's the highest point on the island. Even though we started at high noon, we all made it!

Local dances combine renaissance waltzes and polkas with Caribbean music and rhythm. With their stuffy european roots still highly present, most are even possible for a gringo to learn

There is some kind of giant gene on the island. Was interesting to feel nice and short again, as opposed to my 5 feet towering over to many of the locals in my Barranquilla life

This is the plane that takes you from San Andres to Providence. The doors have gaps in them. The first and perhaps last time I can boast of actually feeling the clouds...

The one road that circles the island gives two amazing and dichotomous views. Here, looking inward

"Lovers Lane" - the bridge that connects Santa Catalina to Providence island.

One of the docks on Santa Catalina: Providence island through the trees

Many mornings I ran to this lookout point and watched the sunrise

Called a "flaming tree" in Creole

On Saturdays they race horses on Southwest beach. Since we had class all Saturday, I contented myself with watching them work out every morning. A dip into the ocean cooled them off after their hot gallops

The houses in Providence are made of wood! European traditions are long-lasting, even if the wood isn't always.

Jessica breaking down "The Giving Tree." Our teacher/Giving Tree decided no, he didn't really want to give up all his apples!

Nothing like the Ministry of Education sending in their video crew for the final ceremony to make us feel like a celebrities

Old Town - the center of Providence

Pigtail and Beans: I thought I'd be super adventurous and try the local pigtail (the hotdog shape buried under beans). Not only is it as bad as it sounds, but I found out later that it's imported from Canada! It's served in lots of local dishes, but couldn't help feeling the joke was on me...

More of a local food success was "Crab Toes" as they're called in Creole - pincers sauteed in garlic and butter. The ultimate finger food!

The backdrop of my new personal happy place

So much blue everywhere. Didn't even need a snorkeling mask, the water's so clear

Our teachers were the kindest students I've ever had the pleasure to teach

On top of Peak

Fellow volunteer Jessica and lovely island decorations (the iguanas and electric blue lizards were even cooler in real life)

By the end of the trip, I'd almost gotten used to seeing dinner-plate-sized purple/blue/black crabs scuttling away through the woods and rocks

The island had a number of wonderful benches with lots of different shapes and colors. This says, "Free Time: Think, Dream, Read." (And it says it in English on the other side!) I say, OKAY.