Down South: my Peace Corps adventures in Colombia: Bogotá: A Whole New World (But Still Colombia)

Stepping into the airport on my to Bogotá, I knew I was in for some culture shock—“normally” dressed people, carpeting, and toilet paper in the bathroom? I wasn’t quite sure what to do with myself. That was going to be a common feeling for the next few days, but I guess in many ways that’s the norm here, right? Minus the toilet paper and other niceties…but anyway.

This past weekend I had the chance to visit Bogotá, our capital city. Family friends from the states were visiting their family in Bogotá, and invited me to share the weekend with them. So many times, here, I find myself quoting Blanche from Tenessee William’s A Streetcar Named Desire, "Whoever you are, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers." This weekend was no exception.
With this incredibly welcoming family I was lucky enough to visit wonderful city sights from the birds-eye view of an insider. A few noted cultural differences:

1) It’s Cold. As in, actually cold. Not-there’s-a-breeze-pull-out-the-winter-jacket Barranquilla cold…but we’re talking, hot showers, socks, and fleece blankets at night. With low 60s as a high and 40s as a low, my scarf was definitely more than a fashion accessory. It was amazing.

2) Traffic follows the rules. For all the fact that each time we got in the car, there were complaints about traffic, Bogotá traffic is incredibly civil. I think I heard horns honk approximately 3 times when we were there…and we did spend a lot of time in traffic. Congestion there is worthy of Chicago rush hour and you often move at a snail’s pace, so I guess take your pick of traffic evils. That being said, I haven’t felt so removed from transportation-related death possibilities in a while.

3) Bogotáfeels European. Between the cold, the much more bilingual nature of the city, the closed-off feel (almost everyone is an apartment-dweller), the plethora of nationalities and appearances (a billboard advertised using the concept of freckles!), and the Germanic-appearing dairies in the highlands, the city couldn’t have felt more different than scrappy Barranquilla. Clean, swarming with young folk and tourists, and home to ridiculously exquisite shopping malls and tourist sites, the city aura was ambiguous enough to be located just about anywhere in the world.

4) Arepa quality. From my self-proclaimed arepa-connoisseur POV, I have to say the arepas were better. Crispy on the outside with a smooth inside and just a hint of popcorn, sometimes filled with a creamy cheese…well, even Barranquilla’s stuffed arepas asadas can’t compete. Might have something to do with the fact the mazorca has kernels approximately three times the size of the corn kernels here…I drool to remember it.

5) Barranquillans dance better. (Thank God.) After attending a baptism, the whole family (from grandparents to new parents, falta only the baby), went to a rumbera at an awesome club. Due to insider privileges (family member knew the owner), we got VIP seating for the best live music I’ve seen in a good long time, by a group who covered everything from Colombian faves to US classics. We danced the night—and early morning—away, and for the first time since arriving here, I felt only like a beginner instead of a total dunce. Nothing like coastal trials-by-fire to make other places feel like a breeze!

For all the differences, what was the same was the incredible friendliness of my hosts, just like we’ve found everywhere on the coast. However, I realized I should never underestimate the value of our coastal location—in this open culture, we can bounce from family to family in a way not available in this colder, more closed-off city. But it also, finally, sunk in that Barranquilla/the coast is not “Colombia.” I mean, I did know this. But Bogotá made me feel provincial; down to my costeňo Spanish, newly acquired “Uuuyyy!” commentary and growing comfort with excessive physical closeness. Nothing like spending time in a “whole new world” to realize how diverse this country is...my new New Years’ Resolution has certainly become travel more!! …Who needs to eat when we can go to Medellin, Cali, Bucaramanga, Armenia… I guess it’s a good thing that arepas are cheap!