Down South: my Peace Corps adventures in Colombia: Bogota

Saturday, June 30, 2012

Vacation Time

For the last two weeks, we haven't had school, as we're in the middle of our three week class break. For various reasons, the English activities planned for the two weeks of in-school development took up slightly less time than expected, but they did occur, so that was good. It wasn't a bad two weeks. However, relaxing as it was to not be teaching in classrooms and having much more daily autonomy, it wasn't quite vacation, as it were.

But my, how things have changed!

Earlier today, I flew to Bogota. It only took three hours longer than expected, since our flight didn't manage to board before the 2 hour all-airport lunch break...but finally we arrived, descending into sixty(SIXTY!) five degree temperatures and the verdant mountain-ringed valley of the city.

In a slight twist in Peace Corps (mis)Adventuring, I'd decided to use some Marriott points I'd accumulated during my short tenure as a corporate professional last year.

Which leads into the surreal fact that I'm currently sitting on the puffiest bed potentially in the world, with a "Pillow Menu" on the nightside table (just press 0 and order your favorite kind, gratis), on the highest (read: executive) floor of the Bogota Marriott. Across the hall is the executive suite which offers, for high rollers like yours truly, free alcohol, breakfast, and dinner-time "canapes."

(You should have seen the desk lady's look of dismay as she handed over my "elite" set of keys and told me of these perks. Eschewing the trappings of my fleeting Marriott gold status, I was definitely hauling a backpack as luggage along with a cheap guitar, and was wrapped in the windbreaker that is my only sub-80 degree clothing here in Colombia...To be fair, I wasn't really expecting the executive floor, so I'm sure my face was humorous to watch as well...)

Pinch me?

Idon'twanttobeanexecutiveIdon'twanttobeanexecutive...if I keep repeating it, maybe I'll remember how true it is!? I swear, there were definite reasons I left this lifestyle...give me a few minutes and I'll gather my thoughts and remind us all why working in 100+ degree weather in disorganized, un-airconditioned or ventilated or even electric fan-equipped schools is more fulfilling than working for a corporate agenda and getting free room service... Okay, I'm back. Teaching is more fulfilling. It just, is. So there we are.

Anyway! I'm set to enjoy three days in this ridiculous hotel chain wonderland. Tops goals include:

Put my feet on every surface that can be sat on (because, believe it or not, that's something not allowed in public or private spaces in Barranquilla. Maybe not here either...but not going to let that stop me)
Watch Wimbledon
Avoid small children
Choose the volume of my surrounding music
Work on personal writing projects
Wear a long sleeved shirt with a hood at all times
Meet up with awesome college friend, who just moved to Bogota for the summer(!)

I'm happy to report that four of these goals are being accomplished as I type. I'll let you guess which ones.

After three days here in the city, during which time I may or may not venture out of the room, I'll be traveling to a small Spanish colonial settlement for the last few days of the vacation. Probably won't be updating again until I have time to experience the sights and gather my thoughts. Or who knows. Maybe I'll just have that much time on my hands, and you'll hear more of my Posh Corps ramblings :) We'll see.

Happy mid-year break!!

Friday, March 9, 2012

Bogotá: A Whole New World (But Still Colombia)

Stepping into the airport on my to Bogotá, I knew I was in for some culture shock—“normally” dressed people, carpeting, and toilet paper in the bathroom? I wasn’t quite sure what to do with myself. That was going to be a common feeling for the next few days, but I guess in many ways that’s the norm here, right? Minus the toilet paper and other niceties…but anyway.

This past weekend I had the chance to visit Bogotá, our capital city. Family friends from the states were visiting their family in Bogotá, and invited me to share the weekend with them. So many times, here, I find myself quoting Blanche from Tenessee William’s A Streetcar Named Desire, "Whoever you are, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers." This weekend was no exception.
With this incredibly welcoming family I was lucky enough to visit wonderful city sights from the birds-eye view of an insider. A few noted cultural differences:

1) It’s Cold. As in, actually cold. Not-there’s-a-breeze-pull-out-the-winter-jacket Barranquilla cold…but we’re talking, hot showers, socks, and fleece blankets at night. With low 60s as a high and 40s as a low, my scarf was definitely more than a fashion accessory. It was amazing.

2) Traffic follows the rules. For all the fact that each time we got in the car, there were complaints about traffic, Bogotá traffic is incredibly civil. I think I heard horns honk approximately 3 times when we were there…and we did spend a lot of time in traffic. Congestion there is worthy of Chicago rush hour and you often move at a snail’s pace, so I guess take your pick of traffic evils. That being said, I haven’t felt so removed from transportation-related death possibilities in a while.

3) Bogotáfeels European. Between the cold, the much more bilingual nature of the city, the closed-off feel (almost everyone is an apartment-dweller), the plethora of nationalities and appearances (a billboard advertised using the concept of freckles!), and the Germanic-appearing dairies in the highlands, the city couldn’t have felt more different than scrappy Barranquilla. Clean, swarming with young folk and tourists, and home to ridiculously exquisite shopping malls and tourist sites, the city aura was ambiguous enough to be located just about anywhere in the world.

4) Arepa quality. From my self-proclaimed arepa-connoisseur POV, I have to say the arepas were better. Crispy on the outside with a smooth inside and just a hint of popcorn, sometimes filled with a creamy cheese…well, even Barranquilla’s stuffed arepas asadas can’t compete. Might have something to do with the fact the mazorca has kernels approximately three times the size of the corn kernels here…I drool to remember it.

5) Barranquillans dance better. (Thank God.) After attending a baptism, the whole family (from grandparents to new parents, falta only the baby), went to a rumbera at an awesome club. Due to insider privileges (family member knew the owner), we got VIP seating for the best live music I’ve seen in a good long time, by a group who covered everything from Colombian faves to US classics. We danced the night—and early morning—away, and for the first time since arriving here, I felt only like a beginner instead of a total dunce. Nothing like coastal trials-by-fire to make other places feel like a breeze!

For all the differences, what was the same was the incredible friendliness of my hosts, just like we’ve found everywhere on the coast. However, I realized I should never underestimate the value of our coastal location—in this open culture, we can bounce from family to family in a way not available in this colder, more closed-off city. But it also, finally, sunk in that Barranquilla/the coast is not “Colombia.” I mean, I did know this. But Bogotá made me feel provincial; down to my costeňo Spanish, newly acquired “Uuuyyy!” commentary and growing comfort with excessive physical closeness. Nothing like spending time in a “whole new world” to realize how diverse this country is...my new New Years’ Resolution has certainly become travel more!! …Who needs to eat when we can go to Medellin, Cali, Bucaramanga, Armenia… I guess it’s a good thing that arepas are cheap!